Cultures of Nations: Batik Cloth ( Indonesia )

Batik clothing is well-know widely in

Indonesia

especially in the mainland of Java and nowadays become famous in the world as Indonesian cultural symbol. It’s very easy to recognize Batik cloth by its motifs and colors.

One of batik’s cloth motif.

Now, let’s explore the stories of Batik and the unique things from its.

The term of Batik

Batik term comes from how the cloth processed and made. Batik is a wax-resist dying technique used on textile. Although the word’s origin is Javanese, its etymology may be either from the Javanese amba’ (to write) and titik ( “dot” or “point” ) or constructed from a hypothetical Proto-Austronesian root * beCik , meaning to tattoo from the use of a needle in the process.The word is first recorded in English in the Encyclopedia Britannica of 1880,in which it spelt battik. It is attested in Indonesian Archipelago of the Dutch colonial period in the various forms mbatek,mbatik, batek and batik .[1]

For centuries batik has been considered as one of cultural heritage from Javanese’s forebears. Its consider both as an art and a craft and also part of and ancient tradition. Until now Javanese peoples preserve it as their identity and proud of its legacy. That’s why some of the finest batik cloth in the world is made in Java mainland. Java’s principles batik centers are Yogyakarta ,Solo,Pekalongan ,Cirebon,Tasikmalaya, Indramayu,Garut dan Lasem.

Kind of Batik clothing.

In Indonesia,generally Batik was classified into two kind according how it produced or made.

There are two common way to produce batik cloth.The first one which considered as the origin of batik making is writing in using tool name “canting” and the product called ‘Batik Tulis" literally means "written batik" and the second method was coming from technology invention in 20th centuries called “cap” which use copper tool to make batik motif on a textile material, the product from this process called ‘Batik Cap’ literally means "stamped batik".

Batik Tulis (Written Batik)

In this procedure melted wax (malam) a chemical material from the mixture of bees wax and paraffin wax are applied to the cloth by use "canting" as a tool, before being dipped in dye.Canting is tool which its handled made from wood and a small cup in the tip made from metal, with tiny spout in it, out of which the wax seeps.

Applied malam to the patterned cloth using canting tool

The beeswax will hold to the fabric and the paraffin wax will allow cracking, which is a characteristic of batik. Wherever the wax has seeped through the fabric, the dye will not penetrate. Sometimes several colors are used, with a series of dyeing, drying and waxing steps. Other methods of applying the wax onto the fabric include pouring the liquid wax, painting the wax on with a brush, and applying the hot wax to pre-carved wooden or metal wire block and stamping the fabric. After the last dyeing, the fabric is hung up to dry. Then it is dipped in a solvent to dissolve the wax, or ironed between paper towels or newspapers to absorb the wax and reveal the deep rich colors and the fine crinkle lines that give batik its character. This method aslo considered as the traditional method of batik making.

This method is commonly did by women.

Batik Cap ( stamped batik )

The invention of the copper block or cap developed by the Javanese in the 20th century revolutionized batik production. It became possible to make high quality designs and intricate patterns much faster than one could possibly do by hand-painting. This method of using copper block to applied melted wax pattern is called Batik Cap (pronounced like "chop").

Making batik with copper block

The application of waxed patterns using this method saved the batik industry from competition with cheap printed European cloth , because with this method batik clothes can produce in large amount in short time , this semi-industrial nature of cap work also allows to be performed by men, unlike the hand writing method which dominated by women.

Various motif of Batik Cloth

Nowadays the various motif of batik cloth comes from Indonesian culture and some foreign cultures influences.According to Indonesian history, some countries from Asia and Europe had been interact with Indonesian natives for centuries by colonialism and trading activities.Religions also take part on this case.Hinduism and Islam are known as two big religion group in Indonesia in past time and recent time.Hinduism which exist since 5^th century in Java mainland considered as the greatest influence for the origin pattern and motif of Javanese batik.The Hindus introduced the sacred bird well known as ‘Garuda’ , the sacred flowers ‘Lotus’, The Dragons and the tree of life. After 13^th century when Islam penetrate and spreading in Indonesian and Java mainland by trade activities, the motif of the batik cloth changes depend of Islamic cultures.Since Islam forbid the depiction of human and animals, the batik motif modified become flowers and geometric design.

Indonesian’s cultures influences

An important genre in the development of batik is Batik Sudagaran.It emerged as early as the end of the 19th century in the principalities of Surakarta and Yogyakarta. Produced by sudagar or batik merchants, it is easily recognized through the modified classic ornaments styled to the taste of the merchants. Some of the popular creations are the patchwork style Tambal, Parang with the insertion of snail-like motifs, Lereng filled with extra fine spirals called Ukel and Semen that shows high quality workmanship

As a specific attire in the dress code of the courts of Java, Batik Kraton is easily recognized through its sub-divisions, Batik Kasunanan Surakarta, Batik Kasultanan Yogyakarta, Batik Pura Mangkunegaran and Batik Pura Pakualaman. Over time, changes and modifications distinguished Batik Mangkunegaran from Batik Kasunanan, even though both originated from the same source. Batik Pakualaman, from the city of Yogyakarta, originated from both Kasunan and Kasultanan design traditions and is more unique because the whole process was completed in Surakarta.

Freedom from Dutch colonial rule introduced new designs to Indonesian batik. In the early 50s, President Soekarno encouraged the creation of a new style of batik, popularly called Batik Indonesia. A symbiosis between various styles of batik, especially of the principalities of Yogyakarta and Surakarta and the north coast of Java, which still utilized soga brown as the basic color, Batik Indonesia was developed utilizing bright colors. Some appeared in a totally new design,while still using the traditional processing system. Batik Indonesia is also called Batik Modern.

Now, let’s have look some countries which had influence their culture to Batik motif cloth in Indonesia.

Dutch and Eurasian countries

The influences from these countries can be found on batik cloth motif design , which produced in Cirebon and Pekalongan in northern Coast area of java Island .Batik cloth from this area commonly known as Batik Pesisir.Their influences brought bright colors, filigree-like birds, European floral bouquet, butterflies and bees to the motif design.

China

The Chinese’s cultures contribution to the design is easily recognized by the vast range of uniquely Chinese motifs including, bird motifs, border patterns, clouds dragons, phoenix, snakes, lions, traditional Chinese flowers and designs taken from chinaware. It is also easily recognized through its bright as well as pastel colors , use of pink, yellow and blue.

Arabic countries and India

The Arab population has generally favoured patterns based on patola designs from India. They also prefer designs featuring green, a sacred color in the muslim world.

Batik motif in fashion and gadgets

Several years ago Indonesian young community consider batik cloth and motif as an old fashioned style. Some batik merchants, fashion designer and product designer innovated the batik appearance and design.Indonesian government also take part to socialization of batik image to be part of Indonesian modern culture.Now batik become popular motif not only in fashion and clothing,some product designer applied the motif to some modern high-tech gadget such as laptop and cellular phone.Batik motif also can be found in accessories, household ware and clothing , even in a surf board.